As we rounded the bend I pressed my face to the window and watched the tail of the train snake through grass-covered dunes. Despite my exhaustion, I stayed awake for the first 12 hours of my journey from Almaty to Astana. Every time my eyelids grew heavy, a flock of birds, a herd of wild horses, or a river would appear and the thrill of seeing something new would have me sitting up at attention
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Blue & Yellow
Blue and yellow flags rippled in a gust of bitter wind and the crowd huddled in front of the Ukrainian embassy collectively shivered. It was the anniversary of Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine.
Himalayan Scales of Power: Nepal’s Balancing Act Between China & India
I arrived late in Kathmandu, tired, freezing, and not up for an adventure, so I was relieved to find a small restaurant still open a few blocks from my hostel. The restaurant was empty except for an older woman. She smiled at me, gestured to a table, then disappeared into a backroom.
Here There Be Dragons #5
Restaurants, cafes, and boutique shops were closed with paper signs taped to doors saying, ‘closed from 15:00 – 18:00.’ Despite the chill in the air, the grey sky, and the empty shops, the mood on Rustaveli was festive. People gathered in large groups or stood in front of their now-closed workplaces. They clutched cups of coffee or tea and waved signs.
5 Lessons From Kazakhstan
From my first day in Kazakhstan, my assumptions were challenged and my perspective was altered. Among my experiences and insights, five lessons stand out. Each of these not only taught me about Kazakhstan, but added to my understanding of today’s world.
Russian In Almaty
As Diaz said, almost everyone in Kazakhstan speaks Russian. Unlike in other post-Soviet states, where the use of Russian is often contentious, it was easy in Kazakhstan. During the two months I spent there, I never felt any pressure or need to learn Kazakh. Which raises the question: Why do so many Kazakhstani speak Russian?
Titushky #4
Five minutes past seven. Dozens of protesters milled about in front of Parliament. Young people draped in Georgian flags huddled on benches looking at their phones. Circles of middle-aged adults talked while sipping hot liquid from paper cups. In a slow but continuous stream, people joined the protest, filling the available space.
Winter Is Coming #3
Coffee in one hand, phone in the other, I settled in to read the news. Notifications and messages flooded my screen. A hot irritation crept up the back of my neck- I had missed something big. While I was watching reruns of random Thanksgiving episodes, police were trying to break up a protest with water cannons a few blocks away.
The Leaves Have Fallen #2
The thunderous sound of people throwing themselves at the metal barricades made my knees quiver. Some had pipes, others metal-plated gloves, but most had bare hands. In waves, the people of Georgia pounded on the barricades, trying to make their voices heard.
Autumn in Georgia #1
In this year of elections, I am coming a bit late to the table. However, my timing feels relevant. While all eyes are on the American election and the potential fallout of a Trump presidency, they are missing the drama in my corner of the world.